Project Page: e2046
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This was a fun build, especially coming off off the previous Asuna kit. I had to put off working on my LiSA statue because I wanted to get this done by the end of the month, and it turned out to be my quickest build. At first it looked daunting because the kit consisted of about 60 pieces, but the simple color scheme made it easy and enjoyable. Painting mistakes were very forgiving being it was mostly robot parts and they are heavily shaded to look like light. I think it turned out really well, very similar to the official version.
All my previous attempts at shading skin were done the same way. I sealed with Future, than applied the pastel shading. The problem was the pastel never stuck well enough, and the shading was barely visible. This time I decided to use a different technique: to paint a dark color where I wanted shading first, then apply the skin color over it. I found that I had much more control over the final color using this method. As a last minute thought, I wanted to add color to the face (i.e. blush on the cheeks) so I did the pastel shading BEFORE applying a Future coat and it worked way better, though any pastel you applied was pretty much there permanently, so be very careful.
My Gallery
This was a fun build, especially coming off off the previous Asuna kit. I had to put off working on my LiSA statue because I wanted to get this done by the end of the month, and it turned out to be my quickest build. At first it looked daunting because the kit consisted of about 60 pieces, but the simple color scheme made it easy and enjoyable. Painting mistakes were very forgiving being it was mostly robot parts and they are heavily shaded to look like light. I think it turned out really well, very similar to the official version.
This was my first time with a kit with clear pieces. Having no transparent paint, I mixed food coloring to Future to make the orange pieces on the bottom. It worked fairly well, comes out a bit too light and took about 3 coats. The purple pieces where a fiasco to themselves. Turns out it is really hard to mix the correct, bright purple paint I needed. I had to purchase a fluorescent violet color by Createx, not transparent because it was unavailable on Amazon, Createx are usually thinned ok, but this one is thick! I have a feeling it is old because of the layer of dust that came on it. But after thinning and mixing I got the right balance and the pieces kind of look transparent. However, once finished, getting the clear base on and glued was quite the nightmare.
All my previous attempts at shading skin were done the same way. I sealed with Future, than applied the pastel shading. The problem was the pastel never stuck well enough, and the shading was barely visible. This time I decided to use a different technique: to paint a dark color where I wanted shading first, then apply the skin color over it. I found that I had much more control over the final color using this method. As a last minute thought, I wanted to add color to the face (i.e. blush on the cheeks) so I did the pastel shading BEFORE applying a Future coat and it worked way better, though any pastel you applied was pretty much there permanently, so be very careful.
The shading of the orange on the black, to make it look like light was coming from the base, was easy to do. I hope it accomplishes that effect, but to add oomph, I added LEDs inside the base, powered by batteries or DC input. This was my first time working with electronics and soldering, so I went the easy route and used an LED strip. The only downside was not being able to get orange in the small size led 3528, so red will have to do. I also found out I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to soldering. I watch maybe 2 videos on YouTube, and those guys made it look easy. I got it done, but the solder joints are an ugly mess. Maybe it just takes practice.
The sealer I have been using was Future floor polish, and to get a matte finish, another coat of Future mixed with Tamiya flat base. But as I found out during my previous Asuna kit, getting the right mix of the two can be a difficult task; to much flat base and it has a milky effect, not enough and it is still glossy. I decided to try Galeria Matte Varnish recommended on several blogs and forums. I coated a few pieces as a test, and it did nothing. After a few minutes of research, I realized it need to be shaken before use. A thin coat will be rid of most gloss, a thicker coat rids nearly all, with minimal to no effect on the color. Until I glued the pieces the next day, and they developed a white firlm only near where super glue was used. With a careful touch, it seem most can be buffed off, though not in small crevases that are out of reach.
